SHINSANWASWITCH
DIY-friendly photointerrupter microswitch/lamp holder 2-in-1 for generic 100mm Chinese arcade buttons. Enables an OBSA-LHSXF+OBSA-100UMQ-like setup at low cost with generic parts.
Updates
Parts list
Electrical
- PCB: 1x
shinsanwaswitch_PCB 1mm thickness (KiCad 6.99+ (6.99.0-1330-ge68e2e973e), release build required for exporting Gerber files or take Gerber files archive in Gerber/shinsanwaswitch.zip)
- C1: Generic 0.1uF through hole ceramic capacitor.
- C2: not necessary, but recommended 47uF 6.3v electrolitic capacitor on the power line input (there is no separated place on board for it’s installing, so can be soldered directly to
S5B-PH-K-S +5v and GND pins)
- STI1:
NSI45020AT1G
- J1:
S5B-PH-K-S or equivalent.
- LED:
S2B-PH-K-S or equivalent.
- PC1:
RPI-352.
- Q1:
2SC5395-F or equivalent (may be rare but can be found on e.g. aliexpress).
- R1: 330ohm 5% 1/4W through hole.
- R2: 22kohm 5% 1/4W through hole.
- R3: 10kohm 5% 1/4W through hole.
- 1x harness
- 5x Single-ended JST PH wires (can be found on e.g. aliexpress or alternatively you can crimp them yourself, I recommend you to found on aliexpress for it 5pin 22 AWG white-blue-red-green-black cable, it amazingly fits connector, feels very reliable and also fits into the understandable color scheme)
- 1x JST
PHR-5 or equivalent.
- 1x LED assembly (no resistors required)
- 2x JST PH to .1" (BLS-02/Dupont 2pin) female wires (can be found on e.g. aliexpress or alternatively you can crimp them yourself. I recommend to use wires flexible as possible, that will be very useful. Wires length - somewhere around ~150-160mm, need be shorter as possible, because long wires will be nowhere to fold. Can be made by soldering single-ended JST PH wire and .1" (BLS-02/Dupont 2pin) female wire together and wrapping each wire with heat shrink tubing).
- 1x 20mA through hole white LED (plugs into the .1" (BLS-02/Dupont 2pin) female connector).
- 1x JST
PHR-2 or equivalent.
- 1x 2 pin .1" (BLS-02/Dupont 2pin) female connector housing.
Pin mapping
I/O port (from up to down):
| # |
Description |
| 1 |
LED+ |
| 2 |
LED- |
| 3 |
+5V |
| 4 |
OUT |
| 5 |
GND |
LED connector (from up to down):
Mechanical
- 3D printable parts (printing in resin recommended for best accuracy but not required)
- 1x
STL/body.STL
- 1x
STL/cap.STL
- 3x
STL/lever_*.STL (because of possible differences of generic 100mm Chinese arcade buttons and possible differences in preferences of players that will use it there available 3 different lengts of levers that you should print separately (and better in different colors) and then determine from your own experience what is best for you)
- 1x
STL/lever_long.STL
- 1x
STL/lever_middle.STL
- 1x
STL/lever_short.STL
- 1x 0.3x6x10mm (wire thickness x outer diameter x length) spring (can be found on e.g. aliexpress).
- 2x M2x8 screws
Example of 3D-print settings that were used
- Layer height: 0.12mm (can be less, but not more, because quality depends on it)
- Nozzle: 0,4mm (can be less, of course)
- Fill level: 25%
- Number of wall lines: 4
- Number of cover layers: 4
- Number of bottom layers: 4
- Supports: only from the bed
- Filament: PETG
- Color: any, but the lever must be black or the part of lever that crosses the optocoupler must be painted with a marker in black in several layers, otherwise the optocoupler will work incorrectly and the switch will not work correctly.
Source files
In folder source there are available source files that used to create 3D-models in SolidWorks. You can use them to make your modification, if you need it.
Original 100mm arcade button Solidworks source files taken from https://grabcad.com/library/100mm-button-1 and very helped me to make this thing.
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